After a tough year of re-habing my elbow tendonitis, i'm finally able to get out and paddle hard without making things worse. Good thing.
So I have started posting my sessions again, but have moved it to our new blogging platform, onsugar.
So if you want to keep up with Kevin, Brian, and my surfing (and now Sean's too).
Out in Long Island visiting my older sis. Her husband Tom Stand Up Paddle Boards, so I gave it a go. Not sure what the tide was doing at the time, but very soft wind swell made less than ideal conditions. Not easy!
Make sure not to tell Kevin I tried it, cause he looks down on "Ocean Sweepers".
Unfortunately, I was a little optimistic about my elbow. It looks like I am constrained to one session a week as it takes five or six days for the inflammation I get from a surf session to go down. Definitely getting better though...trying not to over do it!!
Uncommonly warm, still and clear summer day in San Francisco. Even more uncommon summer northern hemisphere ground swell in the water.
Met Kevin and Brian W in the Linda Mar lot at about 6:40 pm. +5' tide and beginning to drop. Beautiful evening with people swimming at the beach -- super rare. The shape of the waves improved as the tide dropped. Good fun.
Met Kevin at about 7ish mid beach and promptly decided to head to the north end. Didn't matter. Tide moving in fast. Small, weak waves hacked up by the tide.
Good paddling practice.
-.8 tide at 8 this morning. No wind. 2-4 ft and very weak. Super clean conditions. Surfing wasn't much, but at least the paddle was easy. Summer solstice yesterday at 4:59pm.
Morning session a Makaha. Calm and clear, head-high+. I experimented with the left a few times and picked up a souvenir. It runs fast and becomes shallow quickly.
After a few hours I made the trek back to the North Shore and Pipe. Pipe was working. The current runs quickly making it a challenge, and tiring to stay on the peak. Before I started taking turns I spent 30 minutes getting acclimated: watching how quickly the wave sets up/wave speed, dealing with the crowd of 60+ all fighting for the same wave. I enjoy taking lefts so I had some fun rides.
In the parking lot, changing afterwards, I overheard a bodyboarder talking to another bodyboarder: "... you didn't bring it , ... this isn't even Pipe, ... paddling around in the lineup is not 'showing' at Pipe"... uh, huh.
I forgot to mention yesterday ... I stopped by the Dole plantation on the way back to Makaha. The maze and the pineapple float in a pineapple were memorable.
Sunday, March 2, 2008
Makaha beach was about ankle high so I drove off to the North Shore. Pipeline was chest high+ and workable. Warm, occasionally overcast, with a light on-shore breeze. After a few hours I headed east, around the north tip of the island and onto the town of Kahuku for shrimp.
I acquired a pet my first day here. Her name is Island Dragon. She’s very active and talkative in the early morning.
Makaha Beach is located in Wai'anae, Hawaii on the west side of the island of O'ahu. It's a classic right point break that, during the winter, swells get from 3-30 feet. By 9:00 a.m. the air and water temp are 74 degrees. Sunny, clear, and glassy. It's known for it's rights and it's localism. Shortly after my paddle out i was greeted by Bruce, the local sheriff, board shaper, and stand-up paddle boarder with a, "so, where are you from"? It was almost friendly.
Waist to head high, clear water, without too much traffic. As the wave sets up the clear water gives you a good look at the reef and other sharp things below.
After the morning session I made an attempt at driving north on highway 93 around the northwestern tip of the island through Ka'ena Point Natural Area Reserve. Rutted, unimproved roads quickly gave way to a foot path which forced me to turn around and try a more civilized route. The four wheel driving is fun but very technical here and unless you're on foot or dirt bike is impassable due to cliff erosion.
A short lunch at Kua Aina and then off to Ehukai Beach Park. Ehukai is a great shore break within paddling distance to the right of Banzai Pipeline. I stayed as far right as possible to get a better feel for Pipeline. The current here is strong making it a constant fight to stay on the peek. I haven't surfed since i broke my last board and felt every day of it.
Pipeline tomorrow. Aloha.
Ehukai Beach Park
And without moving my feet, Pipeline
Son of the founder of Patagonia. Want to get my hands on this!
Air temp was 45 with 10 mph side off shore winds when I pulled up to the beach at 7:15 about 15 min before sun rise. Water temp 53. Solid head high surf, clean conditions with the wind feathering the tops of the hollow waves. Long paddle to the outside bar. Caught a hand full of long, fast rights. Short session with dawn so late. Very nice, if crisp conditions.